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Investment property loans: how the bank sees your first one, or your fourth
Bayley Clarke · Mortgage broker on the road · Last checked 6 September 2026 · 8 min read
The short answer
Equity gets you in the door. Income keeps you there. An investment loan is an income versus expense conversation, and the equity is the deposit, not the borrowing power.
Every lender then does four things to the deal: shades the rent, stacks the buffers, reads the security and caps the cash out. None of those settings are the same from one lender to the next, which is the whole reason people go looking for a mortgage broker for investment property instead of walking into the branch that holds their home loan. A branch has one set of dials. This page is what the dials are, and the questions underneath each one.
The one question behind every investment loan
This comes up a bit. Someone rings and says, we've got so much equity in our place, can't we just pull it out and buy an investment? And the honest version of the answer is: you can, as long as you can borrow it. Equity isn't cash sitting in the wall. The bank can't hand it to you. It can only lend it to you, secured against the house, and a loan is a loan. It has to be repaid, and the lender has to be satisfied you can repay it before a dollar moves.
You could have all the equity in the world. If the income isn't there to carry the new loan on top of the one you've already got, the equity is irrelevant. The house sets the ceiling on what you could borrow. Your income sets the floor on what you actually can. So the first thing any lender does with an investment purchase is exactly what it does with a first home: income in, expenses out, every existing repayment counted, the new loan added on top at a buffered rate, and a yes or a no on whether the whole lot still fits over thirty years.
The bit that's different from a first home is what goes on each side of that ledger. Rent comes in, but not all of it. Buffers go on, but on every loan you hold, not just the new one. And the property itself gets read as security in a way a home you live in doesn't. That's the terrain. Four moves, and every lender sets them differently.
The four things lenders do to an investment deal
1. They count the rent, then shade it. A property that "pays for itself" in your head is not the property the bank assesses. Most lenders count somewhere between 80% and 90% of the expected rent, a handful sit closer to 70% to 75%, and at least one counts nearly all of it. Short stay and holiday rental gets shaded harder again, and some lenders won't touch it at all. A few also cap rent at a percentage of the property's value, or say no more than half your total income can come from rent. The haircut isn't the bank being difficult. It's the bank pencilling in a vacancy and a repair bill. And if you're living rent free with family and buying an investment, most lenders add a notional rent to your expenses on top, because nobody lives in the spare room for thirty years. Evidence is a signed lease or a rental appraisal from an agent, and an appraisal generally gets shaded a touch harder than a lease.
2. They stack the buffers. The new loan isn't assessed at the rate you'll pay. It's assessed at that rate plus a buffer, around three percentage points at most lenders and closer to two at a few of the non-bank lenders. Then the same buffer goes onto every loan you already hold, including the home loan and any other investment loan, over whatever term is left on them. If a loan is interest only, most lenders assess the repayments as if it were principal and interest over the years remaining after the interest only period ends, which makes a five year interest only loan look more expensive on paper than it feels in your account. Whether a lender adds back any tax benefit from a negatively geared property, and at what rate, is another dial that moves lender to lender. Whether that benefit applies to your purchase at all changed in 2026 and depends on your contract date and whether the property is a new build, and that is squarely your accountant's question, not mine.
3. They read the security. Lenders price in LVR tiers: 80% of value is the standard mortgage, 70%, 60% and 50% sit below it with slightly sharper pricing, and 90% and 95% sit above it with lenders mortgage insurance or a fee in lieu. Most lenders will go above 80% on an investment purchase, a few cap investment lending a notch below where they cap owner occupied. The value that all of this hangs off is the bank's valuation, not the agent's appraisal, and lenders' valuers disagree with each other more than people expect. On the same home I've seen two lenders land nearly 10% apart. Then the type of property moves the dials again: vacant land sits happiest at 80% or under because it earns nothing, and rural acreage, tiny dwellings and unusual builds shorten the list of lenders that will play. On top of that most lenders carry a ceiling on how much they'll lend one borrower in total, so a fourth property can run into a cap that a first one never sees.
4. They read the structure. If the deposit is coming out of equity, the release itself has rules: how much you can take without proving what it's for, how high the LVR can go on a cash out, and what changes above 80%. Under 80% of value, most lenders will release a large amount on a stated purpose, but the no evidence caps run from about $100,000 at the tight end to $1 million or unlimited at the generous end. Above 80% the caps drop hard, a couple of lenders release nothing at all, and one lender on the panel treats equity release as an unacceptable purpose full stop. Then there's how the loans sit. One lender holding both properties as security for one loan is tidy for the bank and messy for you: it's called cross collateralising, and it means selling or refinancing one property drags the other into the valuation. Standalone loans, with the deposit released against the home and the purchase loan secured only against the investment, sometimes at two different lenders, keeps each property its own animal. And inside the investment loan, use an offset, not redraw. Redraw pays the loan down, and pulling it back out for a car turns that slice into a car loan sitting inside your investment debt. The tax treatment follows the money, not the account name.
Every investment question I get asked is one of those four moves in action. Which brings us to the part that actually changes outcomes.
Same equity, different lender, different answer
Here's the bit the online calculators can't show you: every lender sets those four dials itself. How much rent to count, how big a buffer, whether the buffer goes on your existing loans at their actual rate or a loaded one, how much equity comes out without paperwork, where the exposure ceiling sits. Same rules of thumb, wildly different settings.
The spreads are not small. Take $600 a week of rent on a place you're buying. At a lender counting 90% of it, that's about $28,000 a year of assessed income. At a lender counting 70%, it's about $21,800. Illustrative numbers, not a quote, but that's $6,000 a year of income appearing or vanishing on identical paperwork, and it flows straight through to how much the bank says you can borrow. Take the same person living at home rent free: a lender assuming $150 a week of notional rent counts roughly $7,800 a year of expense that never leaves their account, and a lender assuming nothing counts zero. Take a $110,000 equity release under 80%: no questions asked at most of the panel, quotes and contracts wanted at the lender with the $100,000 cap.
Then stack them. An investor on their third property, carrying two existing loans, gets every one of those loans buffered at most lenders and buffered lighter at a couple of the non-banks. The difference between the heaviest and the lightest treatment of the debt you already have can be the difference between a yes and a no on the next one, before anyone has looked at the property.
Which is why "can I get an investment loan" has no single answer. There is only what you can borrow at the lender you walk into. A branch can only ever offer you its own policy, and nobody in that building is going to mention that the lender down the road counts more of your rent and none of your notional one. Seeing across the whole panel at once is the job.
The questions, one by one
Each of these has its own full answer with the lender by lender pattern underneath it. Find your situation and go down a level.
Why doesn't my equity count as borrowing power?
Because you have to borrow it to use it, and a loan has to be repaid out of income. Equity is the ceiling on what you could borrow. Income is the floor on what you actually can. And the number it all starts from is a valuation lenders don't agree on.
Rentvesting: buy the investment first and keep renting. Does it work?
For a lot of people, yes. Rent where you want to live, buy where you can afford. The trade is your first home buyer benefits, and the numbers have to carry your rent, the new loan and the shaded rental income all at once.
Do I have to sell, or can I keep this place as a rental?
You can keep it if you can carry both loans on your income plus the shaded rent. Often the deposit for the next place comes out of the one you already own. If the numbers say sell, there are three ways to do it, and selling is never the default.
I live rent free with family. Why does the bank add a rent expense?
It's called notional rent, and it only shows up when you're buying somewhere you won't live. Most lenders assume around $150 a week. A small number assume nothing at all, which moves your borrowing power more than any rate conversation.
If I buy an investment property first, do I lose my first home buyer benefits?
Yes, and they don't come back. The 5% scheme and the stamp duty concessions are for a home you live in. It can still be the right trade if getting in three or four years sooner outruns the concession you gave up. Do it with the actual figure in front of you.
Why redraw doesn't work on an investment loan
Redraw pays the loan down. Pulling it back out for a car turns that slice into a car loan sitting inside your investment loan, and the tax treatment follows the money. Offset keeps the loan exactly what it was on day one.
Can I pull equity out for a reno, and will the bank lend me the money for the work?
Generally yes, for non-structural work, as a cash out under 80% of value. Structural work, extensions and knockdowns go down a construction route instead. The valuation decides how much comes out, not the wish list.
Can I borrow extra at purchase to fund the renovations?
Three cases. On the 5% scheme, no, the loan is capped at 95% of price. Cash plus a guarantor, the guarantor funds the purchase and your cash becomes the reno budget. Already own with equity, we borrow above the price and earmark the extra, inside each lender's cap.
What's an LVR tier, and can I get revalued to drop into a lower one?
Lenders price in bands: 80% is standard, 70%, 60% and 50% sit below it, 90% and 95% above with extra fees. Renovate or ride some growth, get revalued into a lower tier, and we can ask for a reprice. The margin is small, but it's better in your pocket than theirs.
Do I need to save a full 20% deposit again for my next home?
No, if the equity is there. Taking your current loan up to 80% of value releases the deposit and costs without a dollar of new savings. Short of 20% in cash or equity, the next loan sits above 80% and you're weighing LMI against waiting.
Can I buy vacant land with no intent to build?
Yes, a lot of lenders will. Bring 20% plus costs, because most don't like lending above 80% on land. It earns nothing and you can't live on it, so your payslips carry the whole loan, and the block spends borrowing power rather than adding to it.
Can I buy a block of land now and worry about the build later?
Yes. Banks lend on land and you don't have to build straight away. The catch is the government help: no immediate construction means no 5% scheme, so it's the full 20% or LMI on the gap, and a serviced block in town gets the friendliest treatment.
The honest part
Some investment purchases shouldn't happen, and I'd rather say it here than after the valuation comes in. Buying because a mate did, or because owning feels better than renting, is not a strategy. A negatively geared property with no buffer in your own budget is a bet that nothing goes wrong for a long time, and the bank's shading exists precisely because something usually does. Treating equity as cash is the most common one: the equity is a deposit you didn't have to save, and that's all it is. If the income isn't there, the answer is no, and no amount of equity changes it.
Timing matters too. If there's a fair chance you'll sell inside a couple of years, budget around 3% of the sale price for the agent plus stamp duty on whatever you buy next, and see if the numbers still work. Often they don't. And if the plan is one investment and then a home to live in, check whether buying the home first on the scheme and investing second gets you further. Sometimes it does, and the first home benefits don't come back once you've owned.
One more thing. I can tell you exactly how a lender will treat the rent, the debt and the deposit. What the property does for your tax is your accountant's job, and it's worth asking before you buy rather than after.
What to bring, and the question to ask
You don't need a spreadsheet of suburbs. For nearly every investment conversation, the useful pile is: your current home loan statement, a rough idea of what your place is worth, a rental appraisal or lease for the property you're looking at, and your payslips or last two tax returns. With those, I can order free desktop valuations across a few lenders in a day and tell you which one is standing on the strongest number before anything is lodged.
Then the question to ask isn't "what's your rate" and it isn't "do you do investment loans". Everyone does investment loans. The question is "how do you count the rent, how do you treat the loans I've already got, and where's your ceiling". Those three settings move what you can borrow for the next property further than anything else on the application, and they only become useful when someone can see across a whole panel of lenders at once. That's the job.
Want to know what you can actually borrow for the next one?
Send me your current loan statement and the rent figure on the place you're looking at. I'll tell you how much equity comes out, how much of the rent each lender will count, and what that adds up to in borrowing power. Before anything goes near an application.
No application, no credit check, nothing on your file. Just the numbers.
Common questions about investment property loans
Can I use my equity to buy an investment property?+
Generally yes, as the deposit. Most lenders will let you borrow against the equity in a property you already own, up to 80% of its value without lenders mortgage insurance, and use that money as the deposit and costs on the next purchase. What equity can't do is prove you can afford the repayments. The new loan and every loan you already hold still have to fit inside your income, so plenty of people with a lot of equity are told no on income grounds.
How much of the rent does the bank count?+
Not all of it. Most lenders count around 80% to 90% of the expected rent, a few sit closer to 70% to 75%, and short stay or holiday rental is shaded harder again. Some lenders also cap rent at a percentage of the property's value or of your total income. The rent is shaded because the lender is assuming a vacancy and a repair bill, and every lender picks its own settings.
Do I need a 20% deposit for an investment property?+
Not necessarily. Most lenders will lend above 80% of value on an investment purchase, with lenders mortgage insurance on the gap, and a few cap investment lending a little lower than owner occupied. If you already own property, the 20% normally comes out of your existing equity rather than savings. Above 80% the costs and the policy get tighter, so the honest comparison is LMI now against waiting.
Should I use redraw or an offset on an investment loan?+
Offset, almost always. Paying extra into an investment loan and redrawing it later changes what that slice of debt was borrowed for, and that can affect what your accountant can claim. An offset sits beside the loan, so the loan stays exactly what it was on day one. Same interest saving while the money sits there, very different result the day you take it out.
Next question
Why is my borrowing power so low?The expenses side of the same ledger: the five hidden costs that shrink the number before the rent even gets counted.
Related reading
What income counts for a home loan? Investment properties Every investing answer in the libraryEvery investing answer
Can I rent out the home I bought under the First Home Guarantee? Offset, redraw or savings account: where should my money sit? Bank valuation or agent appraisal: which one counts? Do I pay for the bank valuation? What does it actually cost me to sell a property? What is negative equity? What does the bank need if I'm relocating for work?Got a question this page didn't answer? Send it to me and it goes on the list.